Finally got moving
Finally it happened! I moved my ass! And now that I have got it rolling will try to ensure it stays so.
Heeding Anyesha's advice have cleared up the re postings of the previous blog by mistake. The Paise Bachao Andolan has been a moderate success. Its on suspended animation this month as even the most miserly Bengali splurges during this period.
About a couple of weeks ago, I went to Gwalior. It was an one day trip; went by the Morning Shatabdi and was back by the night Shatabdi. However managed to cover entire Gwalior so for anybody planning to go there one day is fine and two days in maximum.
Gwalior has been ruled by different dynasties at different times and the Gwalior fort which stands atop a hill like a lot of other Indian forts overlooks the city. It has been held by Man Singh Tomar, Ibrahim Lyodi, Mughals and finally the Scindias (puppets of the British). While the fort offers a panoramic view of the city and is truly awe inspiring, there is one little fact that got etched into my memory. There is one part of the fort that Man Singh had kept for his eight wives, so that could enjoy the breeze while on their jhoola. However this place of romance got totally transformed once Aurangzeb took over in his reign ( a few centuries later though). He converted the same spot into a prison and hanged his brother Murad there.
Now, Man Singh Tomar's eight wife was no royalty but a Gujjar, local lady. When Man Singh proposed to him, he kept a few conditions, one of which was that every time the kingdom would face a war, the queen would not sit behind the purdah but go out and fight next to the king. For all those who talk of women staying in the house as a part of our tradition really need an education.
The next stop was the Scindia royal family palace. Splendour, wealth arrogantly displayed; there is no doubt that this was aristocracy and style and class is written all over the places. The place which stands out however is the royal dining hall where wedding feasts have been heldd and even Bill Clinton has dined. The two chandeliers are by far the largest I have ever seen and each is supposed to be heavier than ten elephants put together. The famous silver train bearing the letters S C I N D I A on each coach is kept here. No, this is not a train to travel in but one in which food moved all across the dining table stopping in front of each guest to help himself before moving on.
The last two places were connected to the Gwalior gharana of music. The first is the ancestral home of first family of Sarod; the house of Hafiz Ali Khan, Amjad Ali Khan and Bangash brother. Presently they have donated it to the HRD ministry who have converted it into a Sarod Ghar, which has photographs of famous Indian classical musicians and their instruments. The Padma Bhushan given to Hafiz Ali Khan is also kept there and so I managed to see what it looks like for the first time.
The final place in my itenary was Tansen's Makbara. It was a sad sight that a person who could be considered the father of Indian music has a totally unkept makbara. There were kids and beggars all over the place, running amock in a place which should have been silent moved only by the soft strains of music. A note by the archaelogical survey of India said that the Neem tree next to the tomb was revered and it was said that chewing leaves from it gave all budding singers voices as sweet as Tansen (but thats not even half the job as the riyaz is something you gotta put in). Anyway before I could do that it started pouring. The rain cleared the sorrounding of people and dirt. Somehow the story of Tansen bringing rain by singing Megh Malhar seemed so true in that sorrounding of the makbara, the neem tree and the rain.
Oh I forgot to mention I had lunch at the Usha Kiran Palace, one more palace taken over by the Taj group. Very costly nothing great!
Well so thats how I got going (don't think you ll be interested in my story of playing twenty questions while waiting for the train at Gwalior platform; or having a cup of coffee at Gwalior's Barista 'United Coffee House')
I am going home to Calcutta for the pujas on Saturday. Its been a while since I saw the entire pujas in Cal and its also the first time I m going home since I started working. So will meet you soon once I am back to tell you more as I now will hopefully continue with my travels.
Heeding Anyesha's advice have cleared up the re postings of the previous blog by mistake. The Paise Bachao Andolan has been a moderate success. Its on suspended animation this month as even the most miserly Bengali splurges during this period.
About a couple of weeks ago, I went to Gwalior. It was an one day trip; went by the Morning Shatabdi and was back by the night Shatabdi. However managed to cover entire Gwalior so for anybody planning to go there one day is fine and two days in maximum.
Gwalior has been ruled by different dynasties at different times and the Gwalior fort which stands atop a hill like a lot of other Indian forts overlooks the city. It has been held by Man Singh Tomar, Ibrahim Lyodi, Mughals and finally the Scindias (puppets of the British). While the fort offers a panoramic view of the city and is truly awe inspiring, there is one little fact that got etched into my memory. There is one part of the fort that Man Singh had kept for his eight wives, so that could enjoy the breeze while on their jhoola. However this place of romance got totally transformed once Aurangzeb took over in his reign ( a few centuries later though). He converted the same spot into a prison and hanged his brother Murad there.
Now, Man Singh Tomar's eight wife was no royalty but a Gujjar, local lady. When Man Singh proposed to him, he kept a few conditions, one of which was that every time the kingdom would face a war, the queen would not sit behind the purdah but go out and fight next to the king. For all those who talk of women staying in the house as a part of our tradition really need an education.
The next stop was the Scindia royal family palace. Splendour, wealth arrogantly displayed; there is no doubt that this was aristocracy and style and class is written all over the places. The place which stands out however is the royal dining hall where wedding feasts have been heldd and even Bill Clinton has dined. The two chandeliers are by far the largest I have ever seen and each is supposed to be heavier than ten elephants put together. The famous silver train bearing the letters S C I N D I A on each coach is kept here. No, this is not a train to travel in but one in which food moved all across the dining table stopping in front of each guest to help himself before moving on.
The last two places were connected to the Gwalior gharana of music. The first is the ancestral home of first family of Sarod; the house of Hafiz Ali Khan, Amjad Ali Khan and Bangash brother. Presently they have donated it to the HRD ministry who have converted it into a Sarod Ghar, which has photographs of famous Indian classical musicians and their instruments. The Padma Bhushan given to Hafiz Ali Khan is also kept there and so I managed to see what it looks like for the first time.
The final place in my itenary was Tansen's Makbara. It was a sad sight that a person who could be considered the father of Indian music has a totally unkept makbara. There were kids and beggars all over the place, running amock in a place which should have been silent moved only by the soft strains of music. A note by the archaelogical survey of India said that the Neem tree next to the tomb was revered and it was said that chewing leaves from it gave all budding singers voices as sweet as Tansen (but thats not even half the job as the riyaz is something you gotta put in). Anyway before I could do that it started pouring. The rain cleared the sorrounding of people and dirt. Somehow the story of Tansen bringing rain by singing Megh Malhar seemed so true in that sorrounding of the makbara, the neem tree and the rain.
Oh I forgot to mention I had lunch at the Usha Kiran Palace, one more palace taken over by the Taj group. Very costly nothing great!
Well so thats how I got going (don't think you ll be interested in my story of playing twenty questions while waiting for the train at Gwalior platform; or having a cup of coffee at Gwalior's Barista 'United Coffee House')
I am going home to Calcutta for the pujas on Saturday. Its been a while since I saw the entire pujas in Cal and its also the first time I m going home since I started working. So will meet you soon once I am back to tell you more as I now will hopefully continue with my travels.
posted by Abilin Mukherjee at 4:31 AM
4 comments
