Thursday, September 24, 2009

For my beloved city and the best 5 days each year

Ok, you can't blame a Bengali for wanting to write about his favourite 5 days of the year. However there have been reams written about this festival of the goddess and rightly so, for there isn't a festival that can simply match the spirit of the people who celebrate it (at least to a Bengali). So here goes some of the things that I love about Durga Pujo.
The feel of Calcutta about a week before the pujas begin. We Bengalis believe the sunlight changes to a divine golden, and special flowers begin to bloom. There is feverish activity in every 'para' as the pandals come up and discussions abound as to what vehicle (mythological reference of elephant etc.) that the goddess is coming in for each means something different. For example this year she is coming in a 'palki' meaning draught, and going on an elephant meaning 'good harvest'. The best however is that there is an upbeat mood and everyone is happy. It might be the poorest person shopping for just one t shirt or the middle class elbowing the crowd at Sree Leathers or the rich waltzing into Raymond but each one of them is happy and there is a smile on his face.
Romance during pujas is stuff of folklore. Guys eye the locality beauty trying very hard to catch her eye while every Bengali girl turns into a beauty dressed in white saree red border, open hair and red bindi. Places like Maddox Square for the 'upmarket school and college crowd' might be the in thing, but there is no hunting ground like your local para pujo. Invariably peaking around sandhi puja (maximum permission to stay out late from home) and seldom surviving beyond kali puja, these romances are about buying her jhal muri, or watching her perform rabindrasangeet at the evening concerts and even eyeing her from the corner of your eye during ashtami anjali that you have fasted for.
Pandal hopping has different modalities. From teenage boys out with friends (possibly only time parents give permission), to people from outside Calcutta pooling together a vehicle to come to town, or the likes of me who just like to wander the streets on foot. My family always sees a few pujas, ones they call 'abhijato' viz. Ballygunj Cultural, Samaj Sabi, Maddox Square (Richie Park) and the likes. Some pujas I have always wanted to see but balked at the waiting include Md. Ali Park (note secular nature), College Square and Babu Bagan.
The last is about the food... from kachuri alurdam at breakfast to ilish maach and chingri maach at lunch to shiraz biryani at dinner it is one gastronomical delight. I for one, prefer eating at home due to the simple variety my mom lays out (but my grandmom will always be the best) and because restaurants are a mess at this time!
The best part of the pujas is that while I adore every mythological facet (from madhu kaitav, to mahisasura's different forms to ram offering his eyes as a flower), it is an inherently family and social festival and if anyone claims its more religious than these two he/ she doesn't understand a thing about this festival.
So this is my initial list... what is yours?

4 Comments:

Blogger Ships said...

"These romances are about buying her jhal muri" - Hilarious!

I, for one, have never experienced Puja the way you've described (one of the few rues of a NRB)

It was good fun reading about the festivities! Will look for more dope!

4:02 AM  
Blogger Nandita said...

Like I said I love Calcutta and now cant wait to be there and enjoy the Pujo. Wishing you a Very Happy Durga Puja!!

9:11 AM  
Blogger Madhurjya (Banjo) Banerjee said...

heh heh. finally really hopefully back

7:01 AM  
Blogger Beq said...

hebbi likhechish! You've got the atmosphere down pat

10:18 AM  

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